Our guide and shepherd in Israel was encyclopedic-brained Mordecai. Skilled tourist-bus driver Mohammed steered
us—40 mostly Christians from many different countries—safely along and through
scores of treacherous curves, alleyways, passageways and mountain roads. Guide
Morty and driver Mohammed, obvious good friends, both live with their families
in the Tel Aviv area.
As we drove north from Jerusalem through the Jordan
Valley, Morty explained our plan to drive along the shores of the Sea of
Galilee, then on to Capernaum. But Mohammed, phoning local friends and yanking
a few strings, arranged a special side-trip for us to cruise the Sea of
Galilee. An optional ‘extra’ which none of us turned down … and complete with
that haunting Hebrew music that has you either weeping, dancing or both.
I’d
already fallen in love with fellow tourist Sandra, a messianic Jewish woman
visiting Israel for the first time with her husband and two young sons.
Originally from Columbia, South America, they now live near Saskatoon,
Saskatchewan (Canada) in the tiny town of Elbow. Incredibly, six people in all
had all travelled from Elbow (pop. 294)!
As
we sailed over these special waters, I noticed Sandra bouncing on her bench as
the music tempo livened. I couldn’t sit still any longer either, so hopped up
and invited her to join me on the deck between us and the sea. Sandra and I
skipped and twirled around awhile, and then she coaxed her
seemingly-on-the-way-to-becoming-ultra-Orthodox hubby up.
Here he tries (as he tried throughout) to get me to do
it, ah, properly. Apparently I wasn’t even saying, or singing, 'Hallelujah right. It’s 'CCHHH..cchhAAlleluia' (beginning with the funny chokey sound
Czechs, Dutch and Germans do so well), he corrected me.
Mohammed
gave me a couple of gifts on separate occasions, making like it was a great
secret to offer them. First he passed along a little wooden dove pin (not sure
what the dove is carrying: looks like it could be a fish, or maybe a carrot,
but likely supposed to be an olive branch); then a few days later a Jerusalem
cross made of local wood..
While
my husband and I ate breakfast with him one morning, I asked Mohammed if he is
Christian.
“A
little bit,” he replied, with a twinkle in his eye.
As
Mohammed dropped us off at our last hotel, I thanked he and Morty for being
so fantastic at their jobs, and remarked how I loved that their names were
practically archetypical Muslim and Jewish. And how it was too bad Ishmael and
Isaac hadn’t gotten along so well!
Morty seemed puzzled. “Was it Ishmael?” He looked at Mohammed and they shared a few
words in Hebrew. Then he peered back at me. “They probably did!” he replied.
“Yeah,
I bet you’re right,” I agreed in wonder. “They were brothers after all.” We
left it at that, but had definitely reached another level of the deep mysteries
of Israel.